Maybe it was the red-peppery slice of roasted apple plucked from a spiky frisée and goat cheese salad. Or perhaps it was the sweet-sharp shock of the nuoc mam dip alongside our shredded turkey-neck lettuce wraps, the tart brown liquid bristling with garlic and mellowed by just the right note of Steen's cane syrup.
Whatever the proximate cause, within minutes of our food hitting the table at Kitchen 713, my discriminating friend Todd's verdict was in.
"These guys really throw down," he announced reverently, swishing that soulful Bibb-leaf turkey-neck package through its zappy Vietnamese-gone-Southern sauce.
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